Janapav Kuti: Where Pilgrimage Meets Ancient Ayurveda
When I think of tourist-friendly states, MP is often the first to come to mind. I’ve spent a lot of time in Madhya Pradesh, exploring indigenous handicrafts, pilgrimages, wildlife, and communities with some of India’s most beautiful masonry. Temples, mosques, stupas, and fortifications have left their imprint on some of these ancient structures. On one such journey, I set out to experience MP’s travel richness without just following in the footsteps of other travellers. A group of friends with an adventurous spirit planned a vacation to Mandav and Maheshwar, but with a twist.
We wanted to visit every significant sight along the road, in addition to the usual tourist spots. I, along with a few friends, left Indore early morning to avoid the smouldering heat and unsuitable traffic. We made sure we had enough bottled water, food, and beverages before hitting the winding roads. The expedition came to a halt at a few enthralling ancient locations, the first of which was Janapav Kuti. Janapav, at an elevation of 2900 feet above sea level, is Vindhayanchal’s tallest peak and the birthplace of Lord Parshurama, Lord Vishnu’s sixth incarnation.
The hamlet of Janapav is located between Maheshwar and Mandav, which we were visiting after. Even though Madhya Pradesh’s distant countryside is intermingled with small isolated villages, it is peppered with a moderate frequency of traditional eateries. Local Dhabas, a favourite of truckers who travel here for lunch, maybe seen on rare occasions. We did, however, stop at a quiet Yashraj Dhaba at 7 a.m. for a crisp breakfast. Mhow is a bit ahead of this restaurant.
It was most likely near a village and its tribal surroundings were difficult to ignore. In the background, the sun was setting behind the lush meadows, its rays caressing the outlines of innumerable trees, while in the foreground, a joyous handpump bath was being had by kindred village youngsters. The hand-fried Bhajiyas arrived shortly after, along with little teacups filled with Kadak Desi Masala Chai from the affable Dhaba proprietor. I pulled my sunglasses over my eyes and dug into the battered dumplings that had just been freshly fried. They did produce a very loud crunch.
Morning Indian tea, too, was a perfect combination of herbs, spices, and tea to help you wake up. We were back on the Indore-Mumbai highway by 7.45 a.m., with the sun softly caressing our cheeks through the vehicle windows. I wish I had a hat, though, because Malwa is prone to extreme heat. In the next hour, we arrived in Janapav, an Ayurvedic village that is just 1.30 hours away from Indore. The instructions are simple to follow. On your right, keep an eye out for Anjali Traders.
Take the first left after passing this store, which will lead you to Usha Warehouse. Continue till you get to Jai Shiv Cold Store. The route surrounding Malwa’s nature-rich haciendas is reached by taking the first right after this shop. A rocky road leads you into this little settlement, which is surrounded by heavily forested woodlands and legends of Ayurveda’s mysteries. Nearly every rural woman we saw on the route to Kuti Temple was veiled behind a Ghoonghat and seemed timid. Men who were bringing cattle to the fields were more talkative.
At around 9 a.m., we started excavating Janapav’s antiquity by visiting the Hindu Temple Kuti, the mountaintop Kund, and the next under-construction temple. On this road, there are two temples: the Bherpav Mandir and the Parshuram Janmbhoomi Temple. Because this path requires a lot of walking, you should wear comfortable athletic shoes. We wandered for over three hours, basking in the warmth of the sun on a crisp winter day, taking in every detail of this small community. Along the way, we met up with a few hikers who were exploring the furthest reaches of the stunning woodlands.
“To feel the true charm of these wonderful woodlands, come to Janapav on Kartik Purnima, the first full moon after Diwali, or on Parshuram Jayanti, when people honour the lord by holding an anniversary fair,” one of the locals remarked. Trek to the clifftop to remember Lord Vishnu in his sixth avatar. Parshuram Janmbhoomi, perched on a ridge, is an excellent spot to relax and unwind. Take a peek at Parashurama’s father, Jamadagni’s, ashram while you’re here. The weather had become gloomy and pleasant by the time we got to the Kund.
According to legend, the serene mountaintop Kund is the source of 12 rivers, including the Chambal, Saraswati, and Nakheri. As a result, Kund has a plethora of medicinal advantages. I struck up a conversation with Bindu, who had come to bathe with her sisters, and Gita, who had come to wash clothes, at the Kund. The women talked about village life and agricultural crafts, but they seemed unaware of the hamlet’s historical significance. I wended my way to the other side of the Kund, a barrier that shielded some of Madhya Pradesh’s most magnificent vistas, after engaging in a casual talk with the ladies.
It was here that the deeply knowledgeable scholar Jamadagni and his Kshatriya wife, Renuka, gave birth to Lord Parashuram. Jamadagni, a Brahmin scholar, ran an ashram, while Renuka, a well-known medical practitioner, planted Ayurvedic herbs in the garden. Today, that little interest in plants has grown into a large forest. Parashuram killed his mother after she grew interested in a prince, according to another fascinating narrative. Even though Parashuram was merely carrying out his father’s desire, he was concerned that refusing it might result in a curse. Parashuram received a benediction from his happy father.
As a result of receiving the blessing, Parashuram was able to resurrect his mother, but his father was killed by the Prince. A rustic peasant approached us as we continued to peep over the fence. With one hand, he was smoking Beedi, a thin Tendu wrapped tobacco cigarette, and the other, he was holding the cow-calf on a leash. He rustled, claiming to be well-versed in the woods “Unusual psychotropic and therapeutic plants thrive in the unfathomable depths of these forests. The ancient enigmas of Ayurveda are sprouting in the woodlands. However, not every plantation has been recognised.
The woodland appears to be impenetrable.” His tone had a certain conviction about it that made me wonder why Ayurvedic physicians and pharmaceutical companies are so interested in this field. Brief, casual talks with village residents provide an entirely different perspective on the village. We sat by the Kund for the next 40 minutes, conversing, laughing, and appreciating the breathtaking views. We took a brief walk around the back of the Kund before departing, catching sight of an exquisite temple in the development.
As we marched down the tunnel leading to this incomplete hall of worship, a horse neighed. We loved going around the foundation, dotted with carved blocks and fragmented stone columns. Our Janapav journey came to an end with that. This is a place that is best explored on foot or by bicycle.
To take advantage of Janapav’s natural splendour, the MP Forest Department has recently launched an attempt to turn the town into an international pilgrimage centre with lodging possibilities.
If you ask me, it’s a fantastic location. Our next stop was Maheshwar, where we spent two hours inspecting MP’s treasured handloom manufacturers and the well-known Ahilya Fort on the Narmada River’s banks. We finished the afternoon with an organic royal meal at Dhar’s Jhira Bagh Palace. The next few days were spent exploring Mandav and the surrounding area.
