Chettinad: Tamil Nadu’s Best Kept Secret
Nestled in the serene southern region of India, Chettinad is a gem brimming with architectural marvels and aromatic curries waiting to be unearthed by the intrepid souls who dare to stray from the beaten path. Chettinad beckons you with its brightly coloured mansions, whispering tales of a bygone era. Step into history as you explore these mystical remnants, each pillar holding secrets of a forgotten time.
Whether you want to explore ancient temples, shop at a traditional market, or simply enjoy the peaceful surroundings, Chettinad has surprises in store. Our list of best things to do will make you wonder why Chettinad remains such a well-kept secret.
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Visit the Stunning Athangudi Palace
Situated a mere 24 km away from Karaikkudi, the Attangudi Palace stands proudly, boasting an impressive array of 600 exquisitely designed windows and 64 grandiose rooms. Imported from Italy, the tiles adorning this architectural marvel are a sight to behold. Not to be outdone, the coloured glasses have travelled from Belgium to grace this palace with their presence. As you step inside, prepare to be awestruck by the intricately carved, colossal wooden doors and the charming jharokhas that adorn them. The massive courtyards, fringed with ornate pillars and covered in the renowned Athangudi tiles, beckon you to explore further.
Built by the esteemed Dr Annamalai Chettiyar in 1912, this illustrious Chettinad Palace is not just a house; it is a testament to brilliance. Each room within this palace boasts a unique character, brimming with a lifetime of cherished memories from the family that once called it home. Although the original owner, Sri MAM Ramaswamy, bid adieu to the palace long ago, it continues to be used by his extended family. And when they’re not enjoying its splendour, the palace opens its doors to the public, albeit for a modest entry fee of INR 50 per person. A visit to Chettinad would be deemed incomplete without indulging in the sheer magnificence of this abode.
Take a Walking Tour of Chettinad Mansions
A walking tour through the Chettinad mansions is an absolute must for every discerning visitor. In the glorious 19th century, when the Chettinad region was basking in the zenith of its prosperity, over 10,000 of these magnificent mansions were erected, as a testament to the region’s unrivalled prowess in trade and banking. Though many have fallen into disrepair, several hundred have been preserved.
The ornate facades and handcrafted details hint at the wealth and status of the former occupants. Burmese teak furnishings and Italian marble pillars line the terraces. At these splendid buildings, a harmonious blend of architectural styles awaits your eager gaze. Marvel at the exquisite Italian tile work, the opulent Burmese teak, and the timeless allure of traditional Chettiar aesthetics.
Hidden behind the grand exteriors are sprawling courtyards and living quarters where up to 800 family members once lived. The buildings have a logical and symmetrical layout with separate areas for men and women. They were engineered for natural cooling, with high ceilings, large windows and open central courtyards. So, lace up your walking shoes and embark on a journey through time, where grandeur and elegance converge in a symphony of architectural brilliance.
Divine Tranquillity of Vairavanpatti Temple
Nestled just a mere 15 kilometres away from Karaikudi, the Vairavanpatti temple is dedicated to Lord Murugan, the Hindu god of war and victory. Legend has it that its roots stretch back 1200 years, with its construction dating back to the 8th Century by the illustrious Pandya dynasty. However, it wasn’t until the 18th Century that the Nagarathars transformed it into the stone temple we see today. Its 5-tier gopuram (temple tower) beckons devotees from far and wide.
Step inside and be greeted by the grandeur of mandapas, or pillared halls, adorned with exquisitely carved stone pillars. As you explore the temple grounds, you’ll stumble upon hidden nooks and crannies that whisper secrets of the past. The pillars of this structure are adorned with sculptures that depict a diverse array of deities and mythological characters. Within the inner sanctum, the deity of Lord Murugan stands majestically, exuding an aura of divine power. Two grand festivals, Thaipusam in January and Panguni Uthiram in March, are celebrated with great fervour at this revered site.
During these auspicious occasions, devotees bear kavadis on their shoulders as a heartfelt offering to Lord Murugan. These kavadis, intricately crafted wooden structures adorned with resplendent peacock feathers and fragrant flowers, symbolize their unwavering faith and dedication. The Vairavanpatti Murugan temple gives visitors a glimpse into the architectural and sculptural mastery of the Chettinad region.
Visit Sri Solai Andavar Temple
Nestled on the outskirts of Palathur villages, lies another hidden treasure – the Sri Solai Andavar Temple, amidst a picturesque and tranquil sacred grove, earning its name “Solai Valartha Aiyyannar,” which translates to “Garden God” in the Tamil language. This temple is dedicated to the revered Kuladeivam, the family deity, for numerous communities residing in and around Sivaganga. In its main shrine, Lord Ayyanar sits, with a whip in hand, exuding power and authority. He is revered as the deity of rainmakers, as well as the guardian of livestock, people, crops, land, and the natural world.
It is believed that Lord Ayannar diligently safeguards the village boundaries from any malevolent forces seeking entry. Positioned prominently in front of the temple, a white horse stands as the revered vahana or sacred vehicle of Sri Solai Andavar. This horse symbolizes the embodiment of Solai Andavar’s power. Devotees of Lord Solai Andavar fulfil their vows by participating in the sacred ritual known as “Kuthirai Eduppu” (horse dedication) during the vibrant Ayyanar temple festivals. This ritual involves the offering of brightly painted terracotta horses and elephants, which are placed in a circle around the majestic Lord Solai Andavar temple.
At the temple, catching a glimpse of the Sri Solai Andavar idol is reserved exclusively for males, elderly women, and small children. Younger women, on the other hand, are permitted entry into the temple, however, they are requested to maintain a respectful distance when approaching the main idol. This temple also has an expansive temple pond. While bathing is permitted in this sacred body of water, the use of bath soaps and shampoos is strictly prohibited, as it is essential to preserve the pond’s pristine purity. Devout followers have the privilege of offering pori, a delectable puffed rice delicacy, to the pond fishes.
Witness the making of Athangudi Tiles
When you set foot in Chettinad, chances are you’ve wandered through the grandiose mansions crafted by the affluent Chettiar community. And let’s be honest, those vibrant tiles adorning the floors and walls were simply impossible to ignore. Behind the scenes, a league of skilled masons holds the keys to India’s renowned Athangudi tiles, famous worldwide for their durability and lustrous charm. These crafty artisans guard their trade secrets with the utmost care, ensuring that each tile is a masterpiece in its own right. But what truly sets these handmade wonders apart is the exceptional quality of the materials used, sourced sustainably and possessing an enchanting allure that only adds to their irresistible beauty.
Originally, savvy merchants would import these exquisite decorative tiles all the way from Japan. However, they soon realized that repairing or replacing these imported gems was no walk in the park. Determined to conquer this conundrum, they took matters into their own hands and championed the establishment of a tile factory in the charming village of Athangudi. Fast forward almost 200 years, and Athangudi still reigns supreme in the art of crafting these mesmerizing tiles. Each tile is meticulously crafted and perfected by skilled hands, making it a truly laborious and time-consuming process.
The manufacturers firmly believe that it is the local soil that bestows upon these tiles their distinctive character, making it a breeze to craft an array of geometric and floral designs. In this area, there are nearly 100 talented Athangudi tile artisans. And you have the chance to visit any of these workshops and witness the process unfold right in front of you.
Chettinad: Where to Stay
CGH Visalam is a 1900s mansion in Kanadukathan village, displaying the opulent lifestyle of the esteemed Chettiars, a community renowned for their prosperous trading endeavours. Each of its 15 rooms feature high ceilings, polished windows, and warm, intimate comfort. The furniture is period-style, crafted from the finest Burma teak, and the floors and walls are inlaid with handmade Aathangudy tiles. With every step you take, you become a part of this rich tapestry of history.
From architectural marvels and culinary delights to cultural experiences, Chettinad offers an array of treasures just waiting to be discovered. The region may be off the beaten path, but for those willing to venture into the unknown, the rewards are plentiful. Indulge your senses in the tapestry of a traditional market, where the air is thick with the aroma of exotic spices and the hustle and bustle of eager shoppers. Lose yourself amidst the vibrant colours and intricate patterns of the local crafts, as you haggle for that perfect souvenir to remind you of this extraordinary journey.
