Bhuj Chhatedi: Umbrella Shaped Samadhi’s
From the outside, it’s easy to miss the grandeur of Bhuj Chhatedi. Don’t be fooled by the modest entrance – this majestic 400-year-old relic is a treasure from antiquity. A visit to this historical heritage site was an absolute delight. With the Gujarat Tourism Board, I recently got to take in these exquisite architectural marvels that have stood the test of time. Recently, the Archaeological Survey of India has listed it as an official heritage site, and I couldn’t help but be overjoyed. So, the next time you’re in Bhuj, don’t forget to pay a visit to Chhatedi Talab and its awe-inspiring ruins.
As you enter, the first thing that catches your eye is the unmistakable Chhatri roofs of practically every intact samadhi. It’s true! In Gujarat they are known as Chhatri or Chhatedi, aptly named after the umbrella-like shape of their roofs. That’s why this location has come to be known as Chhatedi. However, my visit also allowed me to witness the aftermath of the devastating earthquake of 2001, with large swaths of the site still bearing the marks of its wrath.
Some people will tell you that the Bhuj Chhatedi was the final resting place of the Maharajas of Kutch, while others would insist it was their Samadhi Sthal. But one thing is certain: Here, the late kings and their families were entombed beneath a majestic Chatri – a sight to behold, common across the Gujarat region. What a glorious way to bid farewell!
Stepping up the flight of stairs alongside the entrance, one can find themselves in a level area with a stone shiva linga and four arched stone slabs covered in Sanskrit inscriptions. Each slab is adorned with a figure representing the king riding his noble steed and his many wives, each carrying a lotus in one hand and a Lota in the other. While the exact details of the inscriptions remain a mystery, the copper and brass lotas used in those days give us a hint of the regality and importance of the figures.
Our affable guide, Girish, was kind enough to lead us on a tour of Rao Lakhpatji Chhatri, the largest structure in the complex. On our journey, we encountered a variety of samadhis and shrines, some with domes that had unfortunately crumbled to the ground. Exuding a regal aura, the entrance of Rao Lakhpatji Chhatri boasts an impressive archway that has withstood the test of time. Inside, visitors can admire the memorial stones of Rao Lakhpat and his queens.
If you know Sanskrit, then you’d be able to tell the story of the king’s samadhi just by glancing at a few of the remaining boards here. Though a lot of the arches have been wrecked, leaving only columns in their stead, the cenotaphs have been delicately carved in classic styles, all adorned with beautiful floral patterns and unique iconography. Even though most of the structures have met their demise, the architectural finesse is still awe-inspiring and well worth a look.
I sauntered from one impressive red sandstone column to the next, bewitched by the grandeur of the Jadeja dynasty that once held the reins of Bhuj in Gujarat’s far west from the tenth to the eighteenth centuries. I found myself wondering how much authority and power the Jadeja must have had over Kutch and its surrounding areas.
In the 16th century, Rao Khengarji I and his successors took control of Kutch and, for two centuries, ruled over it with a steady hand. After a tumultuous period, when the Sindhi troops had their way with the region, Bar Bhayat ni Jamat restored Kutch to its former, autonomous glory. However, their efforts were all for naught when Kutch was finally defeated in 1819 and the British East India Company claimed its suzerainty.
The Jadejas, or the descendants of Jada, rose to power once their control was confined to Kutch. It appears that the Jadejas were one of the various tribes of Sindh that converted to the Karmatian way of life during the 11th century. Surprisingly, they continued to stick to their unique amalgamation of Hinduism and Islam even after the Sammas dynasty’s geriatric branches embraced the more orthodox form of the faith. This is why you can still see a fusion of Indo-Islamic and Kachchhi architectural styles adorning the walls of the surviving samadhis.
Rao Lakhpatji, or Lakhaji as he was more commonly known, reigned as regent of Kutch from 1741 to 1760, after he succeeded his father in 1752. Though it may have been a tumultuous transition, as Lakhpatji and his father, Rao Desalji, had been embroiled in a bitter feud for some time, with Lakhpatji even fleeing to Udaipur to join the king. However, the silver lining was that upon his father’s acceptance of some of his demands, Lakhpatji’s influence was felt in the architecture of the Samadhis which exhibit a distinct Rajasthani influence.
The legendary Ram Singh Malam was an 18th-century architect and artisan who possessed a remarkable story. After being rescued by a Dutch ship, Ram was taken to Holland where he acquired a plethora of European artisan skills. Once he returned to Kutch, he was taken into service by the esteemed Jadeja monarch, Maharaja Lakhpatji. Ram’s renowned enamelling method, now known as ‘Kutch work’, was a key factor in the success of the Jadeja Dynasty, which reigned until India’s independence in 1947.
Ram Singh Malam certainly left his mark on the history of Kutch! Not only did he construct the magnificent Aina Mahal corridor, Fuvara Mahal and the Deshalji and Lakhapatji Memorial Cenotaph, but his legacy as a marine folk hero has been firmly established. It’s said that the King of Kutch was quite fond of Ram, and even had 15 of his wives sacrifice themselves on Rao Lakha’s funeral pyre! Talk about dedication to one’s patron!
Wondering what you can and can’t do while exploring the ruins? The guard won’t let you scale the cenotaphs, so you’ll have to stay on the ground. But watch your step – if you come across a Samadhi, don’t step on it! The locals treat these structures with respect, so follow suit and show your admiration. That’s the only limitation – apart from that, you’re free to wander around and take in the sights. Best of all? It’s free!
