Exploring Anuradhapura: From Monasteries to Monumental Ruins
On a sun-soaked and still afternoon, as I made my way from Jaffna to Habarna, I felt a mysterious urge to take a break in Anuradhapura – the venerated ancient capital of Sri Lanka. As I stood beneath its remarkable Stone Stupas, enormous Dagobas, temple ruins and divine springs, I was awe-struck by the sheer magnificence of its archaeological wonders – the most bewitching sites in all of South Asia! I felt as though I had stumbled upon an ancient sacred site, and I was about to embark on an exploration of its hidden mysteries.
Most sojourns are divine! Here, the flurry of Sakwala Chakraya opens the celestial gateway known as Ranmasu Uyana, while majestic bell-shaped temples emanate light, illuminating the Buddhist culture. Anuradhapura is a place where every corner speaks to you in a chorus of Buddhism, statecraft, and collective beliefs.
Anuradhapura is usually quiet and divine, but as soon as I arrived, I could feel its exotic history come alive. I made my way to the Sakwala Chakraya, the stargate of Ranmasu Uyana, and felt an electric force that was so strong I almost felt like it was pulling me in. They say this rock holds the carvings of the Sakwala Chakraya, and it’s no surprise that it has such a powerful energy. I then entered into a state of meditation, sitting in the Padmasana pose of the ancient Buddhist asana, and I felt my spirit travelling through the different dimensions, my focus centred on the Sakwala’s central chakra.
As I began to meditate, I felt the air around me swirl from the depths of my ribs to the crown of my head, drawing me into the magical realm of the sacred rock that monks often pray upon in hopes of reaching a higher plane. The earth seemed to tremble beneath me, my heart raced, and an air of faith settled upon me. I was ready to explore the mysteries of the unknown.
Marching circuitously around Ruwanweliseya, the hustle and bustle of the outside world slowly faded into a distant murmur. As the scorching Lankan sun beat down, the majestic stone Mahathupa of Ruwanwelisaya emerged, housing two stupas of Buddha relics. In a show of splendour, the grand white bell-shaped stupa unveiled the impressive creation of Sinhalese King Dutugemunu – built a staggering 140 BC! Tales of the past tell us this hemispherical structure symbolized a transition of the Buddhist faith and its dissemination around the world.
My visit to the spiritual capital of Sri Lanka made me understand why Ruwanwelisaya, known as Swarnamali or Rathnamali Seya in Pali, is revered as an Atamasthana or a Solosmasthana. At 338 ft high and 950 ft in diameter, this ancient monument is one of the tallest in the world, and it certainly gives an impression of a sophisticated and artistic past. To get a better understanding of its establishment and opening history, I suggest a read of the great chronicle of Mahavamsa – you won’t be disappointed!
Legend has it that Indra presented the cosmos with the grandiose golden throne, Brahma magnanimously crowned it with a supernatural parasol of supremacy, Arhat Indagutta draped a metal awning over the universe and, monks chanted Sutta Pitaka to enliven the Ruwanwelisaya. All the while, until Gautam Buddha’s exemption was finished, each ghee lamp in the Mahathupa twinkled and glistened.
The alluring sandalwood-scented clay remained wet, and all things crafted from gold kept their shimmer. This collective spiritual practice transformed 120 million individuals into arahants. In a chat with monk ABC, I discovered that the original relics are preserved in a stone-sealed chamber that not even an earthquake could shake.
Enveloped in impenetrable woods until the 19th century, the Ruwanwelisaya Stupa is now fully visible, and ready to provide you with a much-needed dose of zen and spiritual freedom. Your Anuradhapur itinerary can start anywhere, but make sure to end your day in the Mahamewna gardens with a visit to the sacred Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi tree. After all, it was the first Bo-Sapling that Sri Lanka ever received and it’s still providing serenity to this day.
The Sri Maha Bodhi has catapulted Anuradhapura into a trajectory that is said to be sacred and, as I circled its roots, I embarked on an inner journey of self-discovery – questioning the Buddhism that had, unfortunately, been tainted by warfare. Thankfully, humanity has not failed us and most chose to embrace peace over corpses.
Anuradhapura is an unassuming small town, yet it has an extraordinary stillness, with monks meditating in one of the corners that are intensified by the reverence of the surrounding pilgrims. Anuradhapura is also a military passage, but don’t let that deter you from visiting this tranquil ancient capital of Sri Lanka, where you can find peace, freedom, and relaxation. It’s the perfect place to spend a leisurely extra day and soak in the peace of the area.
