Ahmedabad Heritage Walk: Discover India’s First UNESCO City

Ahmedabad Heritage Walk introduces you to 22 attractions, all within the old walled city.

While Gandhinagar is the state’s official capital, Ahmedabad (or Amdavad) is at the forefront, portraying the state’s business sanctuary and unique cultural history. Originally known as Karnavati of Karanadev or Ashawal of Asha Bhil, Ahmedabad was given its name by the British, who spelt it that way. Gujjus, on the other hand, refer to it as Amdavad and themselves as Amdavadis. Ahmedabad’s magnificent architecture; which ranges from centuries-old temples to mosques to pioneering styles to the mediaeval quarter, where the city’s tiny passageways harbour drama around every pretzeled curve, astounds you regardless of what you call it.

Amdavad has a soul unlike any other, thanks to its rich architectural legacy, surrounding the gated community, the Pols or the traditional residential clusters, and Indo-Islamic structures dating back to the 15th century. Ahmedabad Heritage Walk introduces you to 22 attractions, all within the old walled city, which has helped the city acquire the title of India’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site by the United Nations. Take a look!

Swaminarayan Temple, Kalupur

Swaminarayan Temple in the Kalupur neighbourhood was the first notable landmark I visited during my Ahmedabad Heritage Walk. This 2-kilometre heritage walk begins at the temple and ends at the 14th-century Jama Masjid after visiting 18 other monuments in over two hours. Shree Swaminarayan Mandir Kalupur, founded under Swaminarayan’s direction, is the Swaminarayan Sampraday’s first temple and the birthplace of the Nar Narayan Dev Gadi.

The beautiful carvings in pure Burma-teak depicting sacred icons and deities, characterising aphoristic Indian culture, make this fantasy temple a valuable cultural asset of Gujarat. Its richly coloured arches and exquisite sculptures stand out, like jewels in a crown. The central and northern gateways of the Swaminarayan Temple blend regional and British architectural traditions, while the roof of the beetled pavilions takes its influence after the Mughal architecture. The Corinthian order of vertical partitions is melded into the temple columns.

Lambeshwar Ni Pol

I went to Kavi Dalpatram Chowk and Lambeshwar ni Pol from the Swaminarayan Mandir. A Pol is a residential cluster of households conjoined by caste, occupation, or religion. Ahmedabad benefited from the legacy of these Pols in gaining a spot on UNESCO’s list of historical sites.

Kavi Dalpatram Chowk

In honour of Dalpatram, an 18th-century scholar and poet who served as a Sanskrit tutor to British colonial administrator Alexander Kinloch Forbes, this Chowk (open market space at the intersection of two roads) has been built. His poems were ‘originally’ written in Brajbhasha, but Forbes encouraged him to switch to Gujarati, and he published Laxmi Natak in 1849. Known as the first contemporary drama in Gujarat, Laxmi Natak gained the author the reputation of a renowned poet in the Gujarati literary community. During his literary career, Kavi Dalpatram Chowk at Lambeshwar ni pol was his place of residence, and so it was renamed Dalpatram Memorial in his honour.

Tulsi Manch, the ‘original’ residence, was demolished in 1985, according to Sanket, my tour guide. After that, a memorial was built, to which a bronze statue was added in 2001. This new house in the frame was built using design cues from nearby homes as a guide. I wasn’t able to go inside the house, but the front façade with the Dalpatram statue offers a good image of the poet’s early years. Kavi Dalpatram, a bronze statue, sits with one leg folded and a book in his lap. In recent times, the Chowk is used by the residents as a landmark for heritage walks and community gatherings.

Calico Dome

Designed by Gira and Gautam Sarabhai and inaugurated in the early 19th century, the Calico Dome is India’s first space-frame building. Gautam designed the dome, while Gira worked on the finishing touches. Diamond-shaped plywood blanks fastened by steel studs were used to make the awning of this five-pointed dome, which had 8-curved iron struts to support it. One square room is all that there is for the underground showroom, surrounded by a pair of steel lotuses. After the mills were shut down in 1990, this geodesic dome on relief road, inspired by Buckminster Fuller’s design, fell into disrepair and eventually collapsed. In 2019, AMC rebuilt this structure as an industrial historical site and reopened it to the public.

Kala Ramji Mandir

Another remarkable place of worship I came across during my Ahmedabad Heritage Walk is this 400-year-old temple, which houses a rare black marble figure of Lord Ram. This Haveli Mandir is essential to the heritage walk since it has a temple on one side and a residential complex on the other.

Shantinathji Mandir, Haja Patel Ni Pol

Sanket, our guide, paused and pointed to the extended carvings that depict the pastoral life of the Pols at the Shantinathji Mandir, Haja Patel Ni Pol. This structure, designed by Shah Vakhatchand Malichand in 1923, features a 19-inch Shantinath Tirthankar statue. 

This splendidly carved wooden Pol beside Shantinath nu Derasar transports you to a time consummated by silence, often splintered by masticating cows and chatters of the residents on the Otla. The intricate wood carvings throughout its Jalis, ceiling, panels and windows make the grandeur of Shantinath Derasar visually attractive. Shantinathji Mandir was relocated inside Relief Road and reconstructed using marble and wood from the previous temple.

Kuvavala Khancha, Doshivada Ni Pol

As I strolled through Ambli Ni Pols winding lanes, I came upon Kuvavala Khancho, a crossroads near Shantinathji ni Pol with adjacent wells, hence the name Kuva, which means a well, and Khancha, which means a passage. 

From European to Persian to Mughal to Maratha architecture, this cosmopolitan well-passage consists of four separate homes that face one another.

Over the front doors, the symbols of the previous occupants are emblazoned. Check out the Parrot Holes, which are carved into the walls of each house, so that birds can build their nests in the absence of trees while they’re here.

Secret Passage, Shantinath Ni Pol

What intrigued me about the Ahmedabad Heritage Walk is that it is piled, with several gates and secret pathways, in a confined neighbourhood. I read somewhere that there are approximately 600 pols with a history of sectarian verbal conflict in the historical literature. The existence of these small communities is due to the desire of each group to protect itself from consecutive invasions.

ZaveriVad

Another neighbourhood near the Swaminarayan Temple, ZaveriVad on Relief Road, is mostly populated by goldsmiths. There are a lot of lavishly adorned Haveli-style mansions in this area.

Sambhavnath Ni Khadki

The oldest Jain temple in Ahmedabad, according to legend, is Sambhavnath Ni Khadki at Sambhavnathji Derasar, built-in 1662. According to the temple wall inscription, wood was employed in the original building. Later in 1904, however, this temple was completely rebuilt, from marble and stone. 

Although the Derasar is below ground, the Shikhara and domes can only be seen once you’ve entered the building. I’d say this is worthy of admiration!

Chaumukhji Ni Pol

Previously known as Satharni Khadki, Chaumukhji Ni Khadki, with its Hindu-Jain architecture, is located near the Vaishnav sect Haveli of Gunsaiji at Chaumukhji Ni Pol. This temple was named after Chaumukhji’s Jain Derasar, and archaeologists believe that the remnants of a 10th-century Derasar may be found nearby at Ajitnathji Derasar.

Astapadji Derasar

Sheth Maganlal Karamchand pitched this marble Derasar of Ashtapadji near the end of Doshiwada Ni Pol. At the 18th-century temple of Astapadji Derasar, you’ll discover dancing creatures, floral decorations, and images playing musical instruments in an exquisite Hindu–Jain style of construction. 

Adishwar Bhagavan and Mahavir Swami idols are inside the temple. Of all the statues inside the premises, 32 are of Ratikar Parvat’s red marble, 16 of Dadhimukh Parvat’s red marble and four from Nandishwar Island’s Anjangiri Parvat’s black marble. A Jain shop alongside the Derasar sells all the five essential articles carried by a Jain Svetambar Monk.

Harkunvar Shethani Ni Haveli

Harkunvar Shethani Ni Haveli, according to Sanket, my tour guide, is a 180-year-old Haveli with 60 rooms and overlong pillared balconies, held by Ahmedabad’s most extended wooden bracket in the ancient city. Its Indo-Chinese architectural components will smoothly attract you into its fold with its stunning wood carvings. 

The Imperial east, Ming emperor, daybreak, and positive energies are all represented by the 6-legged Chinese clawed dragon. Similar motifs can be found on beams and pillars in China as a type of Imperial adornment.

Dodiya Haveli

Dodiya Haveli is a modest, elegantly decorated ancient haveli that is the finest spot to stay if you want to visit the neighbouring Jain temples. This living legacy, now a boutique heritage home, is a unique example of how Gujarati families in the Pols live. Even though I didn’t go inside, the Haveli’s carved exterior is pretty picturesque, and it’s one of those buildings that will transport you back in time.

Fernandez Bridge/Gandhi Road

In Ahmedabad, one of the city’s oldest streets connects books with readers. The Fernandes Bridge is a book lover’s paradise. It has been working as a roadside stand for almost a century, even though Gandhi Road was added to the bridge in the 18th century. Booksellers in this area will stop at nothing to entice you to buy books from their stalls, and you will simply be unable to avoid them.

Chandla Ol

There are plenty of brass Pooja items to choose from in Ahmedabad’s Chandla Ol market, which is the city’s oldest and largest market and a great place to shop for all of your ritual needs. They stock everything from idols, Sev-Sancha, Puja Thali, statues, Copper Lota, brass camps, lemon saucer, Puri press to light up a festive occasion.

Mahurat Pol

Mahurat Ni Pol, as its name suggests, is one of Ahmedabad’s earliest neighbourhoods from when the Jain community settled here in the 15th century. The development of this Pol signalled the beginning of Ahmedabad’s expansion phase, which is why it is so vital to the city. According to legend, Mehmud Begda established this Pol, which houses almost 100 jewellery shops, in the 14th century. Despite the fact that just a few families live here now.

Ahmedabad Stock Exchange

The 18th-century Ahmedabad Stock Exchange, India’s second-oldest stock exchange, is located directly across the street from Mahurat Ni Pol.

Rani-No-Haziro

Rani no Hajiro is a burial chamber built in the 15th century by Sultan Ahmed Shah to serve as the final resting place for the governing empire’s queens. The walls around these tombs are made of stones, with the burial spot in the centre and a veranda separating them. 

According to legend, the open-air courtyard of Rani-No-Haziro was commensurated to Ahmad Shah’s queen’s delight. With its exquisite decorations and carvings on its walls and domes, Rani-No-Haziro is a terrific place to see a fantastic combination of Jain, Hindu, and Islamic culture.

Badshah-No-Haziro

That leaves Badshah No Hajiro, sometimes referred to as “Raja No Hajiro,” Sultan Ahmed Shah’s most valued tomb. This 14th-century mosque, located near Jama Mosque and Manek Chowk, has religious significance. Furthermore, it’s an excellent place for tourists to visit due to the beautiful architecture. 

In a square shape, Badshah No Hajiro features several porticos, windows punctured with holes, and magnificent woodwork. To enter Badshah No Hajiro, men are required to cover their heads.

Jumma Masjid Ahmedabad

The Jama/Jami Masjid of Ahmedabad, designed by Sultan Ahmed Shah, is the most spectacular mosque built in the fourteenth century. This magnificent Masjid in Ahmedabad is enclosed by 260 pillars and contains 15 domes, extending from the Maidan-i Shah to the Teen Darwaza with three arches. Jama Masjid is a yellow sandstone Indo-Islamic mosque that serves Islamic clients. 

Jama Masjid was once earmarked, for the private usage of the sultans. Later, this structure was reconstructed using artefacts recovered from demolished Hindu temples.

Manek Chowk

Our journey, which began at Swaminarayan Mandir ended at Manek Chowk Jumma Masjid at 11.30 a.m.

Where to stay: In Ahmedabad, I recommend the House of MG (Mangaldas). What was once Shree Mangaldas’ home in the twentieth century is now a heritage hotel with modern amenities including a large outdoor swimming pool, 38 tastefully furnished rooms and suites, excellent meals, and a 24-hour front desk to assist you with all your needs. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind home away from home!