Ahilya Fort: A Symbol of Courage and Aestheticism!
Nestled two hours away from Indore in Central India, Maheshwar, bordering the North bank of River Narmada in Khargone, is a living testament to the glory of the legendary Chakravartin Samrat Sahastraarjun kingdom. According to Sanskrit epics Mahabharata and Ramayana, it is believed that this ancient town was built atop the Somvanshya Shastrarjun Kshatriya site – the very same place where Sahasrajuna pinned Ravana to the ground and planted ten lamps on his heads. Years later, after the classic war, the triumphant Yudhishthira held a Yagna here to celebrate his victory. Finally, it was in the late 18th-century that Maheshwar served as the glorious capital of the Maratha queen, Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar. And so, the majestic Ahilya Fort was born!
To this day, the Sahasrarjun temple at Maheshwar still shines brightly with eleven lamps, devoted in worship of Lord Agni, the guardian of the kingdom. No one can deny this place’s alluring charm, mainly due to the tremendous efforts of the great Ahilya Devi Holkar during her rule. She adorned the city with her grandeur and beauty, with a palace, a fort, and multiple temples and Ghats with wide stone paths leading to the river. Maheshwar stands as a testimony to the legendary tales and beliefs that adhere to Ahilya Devi.
No matter how many times I visit Maheshwar, stepping into the Ahilya Fort remains an enthralling experience. Ahilya Devi Holkar is an inspiring figurehead as she rebelliously embodied the rulers of her time. Every time I set foot in this ancient fortress, I’m left awestruck by its majestic sculptures basking in the warm glow of the sun. The entrance of the Fort is marked by the label “Rajwada Pravesh Dwar,” a name that implies entry to the 4,000-year-old Royal Residence.
Those visiting Ahilya Fort for the first time must begin their journey by visiting the Ahilya courtroom, otherwise referred to as the Rajgaddi. This small courtroom, adorned with antique cannons and a cow mural, is often overlooked by visitors. Photography is strictly prohibited in the Rajgaddi, but it’s essential that you pay homage to Rajmata Ahilya Devi before embarking on your tour. This partially-uncovered courtyard is designed in a horseshoe-style seating arrangement, with the Rajgaddi of Rajmata Ahilya Devi crowned at the center.
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Rajgaddi – A Regal Diwan-Turned-Throne
Rajgaddi is a regal Diwan-turned-throne that exudes grandeur, set with white cylindrical pillows and a framed picture of Queen Ahilya Devi. A mandatory feature of any traditional Hindu home, the centre of the inner courtyard features a Tulsi plant. A quick stroll beneath an arched leafy pathway, leads to a long flight of stone stairs. Though the aerial view of the Ahilya fort from the uppermost stair is quite the sight, descending further will surprise you with some of Madhya Pradesh’s most magnificent architectural spectacles. A few steps down, a railing-free trail reveals the luscious Rehwa Handloom Factory on the left, which is truly a sight to behold!
Rehwa Handloom Factory
Ahilyabai Holkar, the great queen of Maheshwar, was ahead of her time 300 years ago when she pioneered the traditional weaving industry in the city, now known as the Maheshwari handloom. In the late 1700s, her amazing vision and insight led her to select a few talented weavers from Surat to create unique and unique textiles in Maheshwar with the aim of empowering the women of the region. Initially, the weavers practiced their craftsmanship within the walls of the fort, but the skill was soon adopted by many households. Even to this day, the legacy of weaving in Maheshwar remains alive and vibrant, continuing to captivate all who behold it.
The Rehwa Handloom Factory offers a tantalizing glimpse into Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar’s enthusiasm for the unparalleled designs of Maheshwari sarees. From Chatai print, to striped Pallas, Eent, Lehers, Rui Phool, Diya, Tara and arrowhead V designs – each distinctive pattern is an emblem of Maheshwari’s exquisite weaving. Representing the rustic grace and sophistication of Maharani Ahilyabai, these pieces will have you in awe!
Wander into the sacred enclaves of Ahilya Fort and be enthralled by its mesmerizing walls carves and adorned doors! Madhya Pradesh is renowned for its grandiose forts, and Ahilya Fort is one of the most impressive of them all, with its unique sculptured walls and doors which keep its secrets safe, except for the one leading to the divine River Narmada. The architecture of this citadel is a testament to Queen Ahilya Bai, from its imposing arches and domes to its intricate carvings and patterned doors, and the multicoloured boats and kind locals that adorn it!
The Ahilya Fort complex is home to many awe-inspiring temples, making it a popular destination in Maheshwar. Rumor has it that Jagat Guru Kripaluji Maharaj, and many Krishna devotees, visited the area to perform Akhand Sankirtan on the banks of the Narmada river. A visit to Narmada Ghat is a must to witness the locals, who can be seen bathing, boating, praying and even swimming in the river. Taking a boat ride to ShahstraDhara waterfall was an unforgettable experience, and the boatman even took us to a small Shiva temple in the middle of the river. Despite its size, it was packed with people chanting Narmadey Har, which is a traditional way of paying respect to the Narmada river.
On one of my other Maheshwar trips, I took a boat ride to the magical Baneshwar island. This island, they say, is positioned in the center of Earth, implicitly connected to the North Star. I had the chance to explore a 15th-century shrine on this very spot, which is widely known as a holy site. While returning from Baneshwar, the boatman guided me to the Kashi Vishwanath temple, where Ahilya Bai had built rooms for the sadhus and other holy men. In more recent times, Prince Richard Holkar, one of the descendants, has been living in and maintaining a part of the Fort since 1971, truly making a royal mark on the area.
The section where Richard Holkar resides is truly a reminder of the majestic Maratha era; with centuries-old teak furnishings, lion skin rugs and a royal kitchen cooking up the much-acclaimed pomegranate duck for the royal family. After indulging in the remarkable history, visitors to the fort usually end the tour by grabbing some coffee and local snacks at the on-site Labbooz Cafe.
